A Humbling Introduction
May 2019. I had been hiking regularly for six years at that point and considered myself reasonably experienced. I flew into Alice Springs with plans to tackle Sections 4 through 7 over five days. By the end of Day 2, I was questioning every life decision that had led me to that red, scorched ridge.
The Larapinta Trail is not particularly technical. The paths are clear, the navigation is straightforward, and the distances are manageable. What makes it challenging is everything else - the relentless sun, the scarcity of water, the isolation, and the way the outback seems to suck the energy right out of you.
My Failed First Attempt
I need to be honest about this because it informs everything else I will tell you. On my first attempt, I underestimated water requirements by about 40%. I had read that 4-5 litres per day was recommended. What I failed to account for was that my normal coastal hiking metabolism would absolutely not apply in 30-degree desert heat.
By midday on Day 2, I was down to half a litre of water with 15 kilometres to the next tank. I made it, but I was genuinely frightened by how quickly the situation had deteriorated. I cut the trip short and returned to Alice Springs feeling like a complete amateur.
The desert does not care about your hiking resume. It does not care that you have done the Overland Track or summited Kosciuszko in winter. It plays by different rules entirely.
Coming Back Prepared (2021)
Two years later, I returned. This time I had done my homework properly. I booked with Trek Larapinta for a supported trip on Sections 1-5, which meant water drops and cached supplies. It was a completely different experience.
With water logistics handled, I could actually appreciate what this trail offers. And it offers a lot. The landscapes are genuinely otherworldly - ancient red gorges, ghost gums that glow white against rust-coloured cliffs, and a silence so complete you can hear your own heartbeat.
Section Recommendations
The full 223km trail is divided into 12 sections, each ending at a water tank or trailhead. Not all sections are created equal. Here is my honest assessment of the ones I have completed:
Section 3: Standley Chasm to Birthday Waterhole (13.6km)
My favourite day section. You start at Standley Chasm (spectacular but touristy), then climb onto ridgelines with views that stretch forever. The descent to Birthday Waterhole is steep but the swimming hole at the end makes it worthwhile. Bring your togs.
Section 4: Birthday Waterhole to Hugh Gorge (17.1km)
This is where the trail gets serious. Long exposed ridgelines, minimal shade, and a challenging descent into Hugh Gorge. I would not recommend this section for first-timers unless you are very confident with heat management.
Section 9: Ormiston Gorge to Finke River (28.6km)
The longest section and probably the most rewarding. Ormiston Gorge is one of the most photogenic spots in Central Australia, and the walk along the ancient Finke River bed has this meditative quality that is hard to describe.
Water Requirements (What Actually Works)
- Minimum: 1 litre per 3km in cooler months (June-August)
- April/September: 1 litre per 2.5km
- Avoid: Do not attempt this trail October-March unless you have extensive desert experience
- Capacity: You need to carry at least 6-8 litres at a time between tanks
- Tank water: The track tanks are rainwater - generally fine to drink but I always filter
Physical Demands
The Larapinta requires a different kind of fitness than coastal trails. It is not about steep climbs or technical scrambling - it is about sustained output in challenging conditions. I trained specifically for my second attempt by hiking with a weighted pack in the hottest part of the day. It helped.
What You Need
- Good aerobic base - you will be walking 6-8 hours per day
- Heat tolerance - this cannot be fully trained but gradual exposure helps
- Strong ankles - the rocky terrain is unforgiving
- Mental resilience - the isolation and monotony can be challenging
Logistics and Access
Alice Springs is the gateway. You can drive to most section trailheads via Larapinta Drive and Namatjira Drive. The NT Parks website has current road conditions - some trailheads require 4WD access.
For self-supported trips, you will need to pre-position water at tanks using the tank key system. This requires planning and multiple trips. Alternatively, book with an operator who handles logistics.
Accommodation Options
- Camping: Designated sites at each section end. Basic - no facilities except water tanks.
- Supported: Operators like Trek Larapinta provide tent camps with meals.
- Day trips: Several sections are accessible as day walks from Alice Springs.
When to Go
June through August is optimal. Days are warm (20-25 degrees) but manageable, nights are cold (often below zero), and the flies are less horrific than shoulder seasons.
April-May and September are possible but hotter. I did my successful trip in early September and it was pushing my comfort limits - 32 degrees by midday most days.
October through March is genuinely dangerous for multi-day trips. Temperatures regularly exceed 40 degrees and water requirements become almost impossible to meet.
Would I Recommend This Trail?
With conditions, yes. If you have solid multi-day hiking experience and can respect the desert environment, the Larapinta offers something you will not find anywhere else in Australia. The landscapes are genuinely unique, and there is a certain satisfaction in meeting the challenge on its terms.
However, do not treat this as a "step up" from coastal trails without proper preparation. The skills that make you successful on the Overland Track or in the Blue Mountains do not fully transfer here. Plan conservatively, consider a supported trip for your first attempt, and always carry more water than you think you need.
The outback will humble you if you give it the opportunity. Better to return home with extra water than to run out on a ridgeline 20 kilometres from anywhere.
