The Trail That Started Everything
October 2013. My mate Steve had been nagging me for months to try bushwalking. I finally caved, mostly to shut him up. He picked the Grand Canyon Track because, and I quote, "even you can manage this one." Thanks, Steve.
What I did not expect was to be completely blown away. I had lived in Sydney for eight years at that point and somehow never made it to the Blue Mountains for anything other than the obligatory Three Sisters photo. Standing in that canyon, surrounded by towering sandstone walls dripping with ferns, I genuinely could not believe this existed two hours from my apartment.
What "Beginner" Actually Means Here
Let me be honest - the official "easy to moderate" rating is slightly generous. There are roughly 800 steps on this track, and while they are well-maintained, your legs will know about them the next day if you are not used to hiking.
That said, this is absolutely doable for anyone with reasonable fitness. I completed it on my first attempt with zero hiking experience, a hangover from the night before, and wearing $30 sneakers that I later learned were completely inappropriate. So the bar is not high.
The Grand Canyon Track remains my recommendation for anyone asking "where should I start with bushwalking?" It is challenging enough to feel like an accomplishment but not so brutal that you swear off hiking forever.
The Route Breakdown
Start at the Evans Lookout car park. The track descends into the canyon through a series of switchbacks, then winds along the canyon floor past overhangs, slot canyons, and ancient ferns. It loops back via Rodriguez Pass and Beauchamp Falls before climbing back to the car park.
I have done this track anticlockwise and clockwise. Anticlockwise (descending into the canyon first) works better in my opinion - you get the steep descent out of the way while your legs are fresh, and the gradual climb out is more forgiving.
What I Wish I Knew First Time
Essential Tips
- Bring a torch: There are two tunnel sections where you cannot see your hand in front of your face. Your phone flashlight works but a proper torch is better.
- Wear proper shoes: The steps can be slippery after rain. My first attempt in sneakers had several near-misses.
- Start early: The canyon gets crowded on weekends. I aim for a 7am start to have it mostly to myself.
- Check conditions: After heavy rain, the track can be temporarily closed. NSW National Parks has current alerts.
- Allow extra time: You will want to stop constantly for photos. The "3-4 hours" estimate assumes you are not pausing every five minutes.
Fitness Requirements (Honest Assessment)
If you can climb 10 flights of stairs without needing a lie-down, you can do this track. The steps are the main challenge - the flat sections along the canyon floor are easy walking.
I have taken my 68-year-old mum on this track. She completed it in about 4.5 hours with several tea breaks. I have also taken friends who regularly run marathons - they finished in under 2 hours and complained it was "too easy." So calibrate accordingly.
Physical Demands
- Moderate cardio fitness required for the stairs
- Some scrambling over rocks (nothing technical)
- A few narrow sections that might challenge those uncomfortable with confined spaces
- No equipment needed beyond comfortable walking shoes
Best Time to Visit
I have done this track in every season. Spring (September-November) is probably ideal - wildflowers are out, temperatures are moderate, and the waterfalls have decent flow from winter rains.
Summer works but can be brutally hot. The canyon itself stays relatively cool, but those exposed sections at the start and end will cook you on 35-degree days.
Winter is underrated. Fewer crowds, crisp air, and the canyon takes on this moody, atmospheric quality when mist drifts through. Just be prepared for wet, slippery surfaces.
Getting There
The trailhead is at Evans Lookout Road, off the Great Western Highway in Blackheath. It is about 2 hours from Sydney CBD, or 15 minutes from Katoomba if you are making a weekend of it.
Parking is free but limited. On weekends, arrive before 8am or expect to park on the road and walk an extra 10 minutes.
Public transport is possible but awkward - train to Blackheath station, then either a taxi or a 2km walk to the trailhead.
Would I Recommend This Trail?
Without hesitation. Twelve years and 47 trails later, the Grand Canyon Track still ranks as one of my favourite day walks in Australia. The scenery-to-effort ratio is exceptional, and it genuinely feels like stepping into another world.
For beginners, it offers a proper challenge without being demoralising. For experienced hikers, it is a reliable option when you want something scenic without committing to an all-day mission.
Just respect the stairs. They have humbled more confident hikers than you might expect.
